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    Maelstrom New Horizons


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Aspiring 2D/3D artist looking to expand portfolio

ImPeRaToR

ImPeRaToR

Landlubber
Hello, I'd like to assist this project by creating graphical content. I am 31 years old and relatively new to the business, but you have to start building your portfolio somewhere right? :)

I've read that ships are already covered sufficiently for the initial release and I am actually looking to start out with something smaller to begin with.
If you have any requests with relevant research material feel free to forward it to me :)

some of my work:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tz4wlwlmwqxfgib/AAAeax9kAfPeQEgCq_6yDh8La
(please note that the soldiers themselves are not my work, just the gun)
 
Ahoy matey! Welcome to the forums. Your help would be much appreciated for sure. :onya

What would you like to model? There's a lot to choose from. :cheeky
 
Hi, thanks for the warm welcome :) I don't have anything specific in mind but I saw that you guys need buildings, I could make some of those next, given sufficient research material. That cutlass looks like a good start however, but I will need some rough ballpark numbers for polycount or triangles and eventually the texture resolutions you aim for. I assume the cutlass will be used in first-person combat so you probably want something high-fidelity :)
 
I think the texture files should be like that:
Diffusemap (2048x2048)
Normalmap (2048x2048)
Glossmap (1024x1024)
Specularmap (1024x1024)

The low poly model poly/tris count should be around 10'000 (highpoly baked to low poly), with about 3 to 4 LODs.
 
Thanks for the fast reply, I only have rudimentary knowledge when it comes to creating normal maps, especially baking them with high poly models - I am thinking of creating the "low poly" model first, then I would do the UV map and once finished create a copy of the low poly model and additing detail to it to create the high poly model, that way I can maintain the same UV map without or only little fiddling. Is there any obvious flaw to that plan?

Also, can somebody provide a good "cross section" for a typical cutlass, I was planing on simply extruding such a crosss section along the length of the blade and adjusting it appropriately towards the tip.
 
Apparently the best angle for a cutting edge is 40°, and the sides of the swords seem relatively flat apart from the grooves. Does anyone know how such grooves were made in those times? Were they milled or simply hammered into the blade or something? I am also asking so I can model/texture potential tool marks etc


edit: I think I found it, nevermind :)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuller_(weapon)
 
Dirty protoype with simple geometry, now if I want to maintain an angle of 40° on the edge, especially towards the tip where the cutting action will be happening, I will either have a very big edge or the blade will have to become more narrow. So I would have to get some information on how wide such a blade is and if and how it narrows down etc to make a proper model.

First picture has some transparency on the 3D model for the picture to show through.
cutlass_prot.jpg cutlass_prot2.jpg

edit:
Maybe this will show the thickness of my blade a bit better, probably way too much :)
edge_2.jpg
 
Last edited:
You don't necessarily have to maintain a 40 degree angle, I don't think.

I have a reproduction pattern 1804, which I expect to be slightly heavier than this model. I'll get you an approximate measurement of the width of the blade after getting home later today.
 
That would be excellent, thanks. I uploaded a third picture which you probably missed.
I should probably only try to achieve around 40° around the "center of percusion" as the book SeaNorris. linked calls it, where the majority of the actual cutting action happens.

Towards the guard, the sharpness of the edge probably decreases and vanishes I suppose, something I did not take into account yet.

Several points of measurement would be nice if the blade width actually decrease towards the tip, unless it decreases in a linear fashion.
 
Post Captain said:
You don't necessarily have to maintain a 40 degree angle, I don't think.

I have a reproduction pattern 1804, which I expect to be slightly heavier than this model. I'll get you an approximate measurement of the width of the blade after getting home later today.
Click to expand...

Bump :)
 
The width of the back of the blade is close to 4mm, and it only narrows to a point on the last 3 inches of the blade. That's all I can give you since it isn't sharpened. Keep in mind that the 1804 pattern was a very heavy cutlass.

Sorry that took so long. I completely forgot about that. I've been extremely busy and I'm not entirely active anymore.
 
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