The second distillery along the road was Lagavulin, which didn't have such an impressive display. We got to sit in their lounge and try some of their product: And then we went outside for a packed lunch provided by the cook of the Atlantis. We had a good view of Dunyvaig Castle, or what's left of it, and also a couple of seals, who seemed to be taking the afternoon off: On the way to the next distillery, we passed the current Excise House. We didn't call in that one either. We'd just entered the grounds of Ardbeg Distillery when we noticed a ship moving out. That had better have been the Thalassa because if it was Atlantis, we were going to have a rather longer walk back than we'd expected: In the carpark were displayed a big logo, a still, and a dinosaur head. I've no idea what the dinosaur head was doing there. Ardbeg offered an express tasting of five of its whiskies: Islay malts have a smokier taste than most, because the Islay distilleries aren't afraid to let peat get in the water which is used in the making. Some other distilleries keep their water peat-free. Islay distilleries don't. Ardbeg doesn't mess about, it gets peat into the process wherever it can, which means if you like your whisky peaty, that's probably the one for you. After that we got the bus back to Port Ellen, where it turned out the departing ship had indeed been Thalassa. So, back on Atlantis, it was time for dinner. And that's as good a point as any to state that the food on the Atlantis was absolutely superb. There was plenty of salad for anyone who was vegetarian and plenty of meat for anyone who wasn't, along with enough side dishes to complete the meal, all cooked to perfection.